Schramsberg, 2018 North Coast Brut Rosé ($47), our wine of the week, is a suave, seductive beauty perfect for the most romantic of winter holidays, Valentine’s Day. There’s an earthy quality in the aromas, with hints of nuts — think Brazil nuts — and yeast, qualities mirrored on the palate.

Rising above these flavors are bright notes of ripe strawberry and pomegranate, along with a pleasingly acidic suggestion of cranberry. Little bubbles tap dance delicately on our tongues, a sensation our brains interpret as refreshing.

It’s a delightful sparkler, dazzling and delicious, and enhanced by an array of foods. You’ll enjoy it with oysters on the half shell; Dungeness crab; smoked salmon with crème fraîche and green onion pancakes; risotto fonduta; grilled asparagus; spaghettini with crème fraîche, lemon and golden caviar; and scrambled eggs topped with creamed oysters, preferably enjoyed at midnight. You can even have it with a steak, especially a rib-eye; just grill it rare and finish it with a generous spritz of lemon.

For today’s recipe, I’m inspired by an ingredient that has always been more popular on the East Coast than on the West Coast: salt cod. I see it served in local restaurants now and then — K & L Bistro in Sebastopol makes fabulous salt cod fritters — but it’s not a common ingredient in our home kitchens, not to the degree it is other parts of the country.

But prepared properly — which mostly involves soaking it for a couple days — it’s absolutely wonderful. And because it is less common here, it also seems quite special. If you’ll be preparing a special evening, consider this voluptuous dish. Add a green salad and something for dessert — chocolate bonbons, perhaps — and you’ll have a precious feast that won’t leave you too full. Be sure to note that you need to start a day or two in advance, as the salt cod must be soaked in water for at least 24 hours. Santa Rosa Seafood carries salt cod (santarosaseafood.com).

Brandade de Morue (Salt Cod and Potato Puree)

1 pound boneless skinless salt cod, soaked (see Note below)

½ cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil

¾ cup crème fraîche, scalded

Black pepper in a mill

Crackers or sliced sourdough bread, lightly toasted

Drain the salt cod, put it in a saute pan that will hold it flat and cover with cold water. Set over a medium flame and slowly bring to a boil. When the water reaches a rolling boil, cover the pan and remove it from the heat. Let the cod sit until it flakes easily, 30 minutes, depending on its thickness. Drain thoroughly and let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, cut the potatoes into a few big chunks. Put them in a saucepan, cover with water by at least 2 inches, season generously with salt and set over high heat. When the water boils, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well and press through a potato ricer or a food mill into a large mixing bowl. Set aside.

Remove the skin and any bones from the cod (even boneless and skinless cod may have a few stragglers). Crumble into very small pieces and add to the bowl with the potatoes. Add the garlic and mix well.

Working quickly, pour the olive oil into a small saucepan and set over medium heat to warm it; don’t let it simmer or smoke. Drizzle the warmed oil into the potatoes and cod, mixing all the while. Put the crème fraîche into the saucepan, set over medium heat and stir gently until hot. Fold into the cod mixture.

Add several turns of black pepper, taste and correct for salt if needed.

Put the brandade in an ovenproof dish. Set under the broiler briefly, until the top just begins to color.

Carefully remove the dish from the oven, set it on a wooden platter or cutting board and enjoy right away, with radishes and crackers or toast alongside.

Note: Put the salt cod in a large container, cover with water and soak, changing the water several times, for at least 24 hours; 48 hours is better. If you have a cool pantry, you don’t need to refrigerate the soaking cod. If you don’t, put it in the refrigerator.

Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date, including “San Francisco Seafood.” Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com

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